In the course of tasting the Pitijopos the first time around the most expressive mosto at the first time of asking was one from way down in Chiclana, to the South of Jerez, and a specific pago called Finca Matalian, only 7km from the sea, owned by Primitivo Collantes.

It made such an impression that I have since felt compelled to taste, or retaste, all of the wines I could find from that little patch of land:

• Viña Matalian 2013
• Viña Matalian 2014
• Viña Matalian 2015
• the Fino Arroyuelo
• the Fino Arroyuelo en Rama (Feb 2015) (not for the first time, and the March 2015 and the September 2015)
• the Fossi Amontillado (again not for the first time);
• the Moscatel Oro Los Cuartillos; and
• Cream el Trovador

I would recommend anyone to do the same.  These are beautifully made, under-rated wines and an excellent opportunity to taste the finos and amontillado alongside the related white wine. It is fascinating to see the difference the flor makes, eating away all that fruit and glycerine and exposing an extremely mineral frame, and equally intriguing to see how the oxidation of the amontillado (probably my favourite and one of the most drinkable wines around) creates the illusion of bringing the fruit back.

And there is more to come. This isn’t the full list – there is another sweet sherry and another Moscatel that I haven’t got to yet, and while theViña Matalian was fermented in Inox but there is also now a related white wine – the Socaire – that has been fermented and aged 12 months in an old sherry cask. I will report back on that shortly and the others in due course. It is also said that Don Primitivo has planted a couple of hectares of “Uva Rey”.

(Photo of Finca Matalian earlier this week, courtesy of Primitivo Collantes.)