Here we go again with more of the descendants of the magnificent mosto from Primitivo Collantes’ Finca Matalian – raising the stakes on last night’s Fino with the Fino en Rama. First time I had this I found it too vigorous – and then was stupified when I saw it described in one professional tasting as “flat”. Really wanted to try again so have come for a sneaky Friday cata/lunch at Taberna Verdejo, one of the best places for sherry (and, sweetbreads, and indeed eating) in Madrid.

Second time around is interesting. Frankly I am better prepared mentally – this is an intense, mineral fino, and the first time it took me by surprise. After the learnings of recent days the elephant of surprise has vanished.

So, the colour is indeed darker than the fino, has greenish brown notes. The nose is also still massively mineral with ozone/sea air, but again there are some green herbs in the background.

In the mouth too there are similarities: more minerals, zing on the tongue and a salty water texture. However those herbs crop up again – dry herbs like thyme or rosemary, slightly bitter in the finish. Still no sign of that big fruit but a slightly fuller flavoured wine.

I like it more than the first time – maybe I am better placed to appreciate it – but is still vigourous and maybe a bit front-heavy. (Flat though? Really?)