This wine for me is defined by its minerals, even compared to other finos. Some sacas are exhilaratingly saline, so zingy that they are like the famous “salty knives” of Sanlucar, others are less piercing but still structured, and you get more of the apple juice fruit as a result. (It is, of course, from Finca Matalian.)

The saca from last September was of the latter school, and I remember at the time I tried it that I would like to see the comparison with this one from March last year. Several weeks have gone by since then so I am not able to compare faithfully but this certainly seems to have a more mineral feel – real zing and structure, and also big volume, and instead of apples more along the lines of celery and green leafy vegetables, just a hint of that salad-like spiciness.

Really good stuff yet again.