I have really enjoyed the 2013 and 2014 and now here is the 2015 with an even more evocative label of seashore and birdlife (the finca that this comes from – Finca Matalian – is only 7km from the sea in the far South of the marco).

I only had a chance to taste this in passing (and late in the day) but no doubt that the same characteristics are there. I actually tasted this on the same night as the Las 30 de Cuadrado and the La Charanga and, although I am conscious of the risk of lazy rationalization, it seemed to have less structure than either – an almond profile compared to a spearhead/leafhead. Very pleasant though – that floral, herbal, only slightly mineral freshness. A fresh, elegant sup.

(I have a 2013 in the fridge here and am wondering whether to stick or twist. Will see if I can get all three – and maybe the version that has had some later oak – together.