Manzanilla en Rama Barbiana

This is a class manzanilla, one that I have had frequently over the years and could not believe I had never written a note about it this (evidently incomplete, shambolic and half arsed) blog. I had this last evening at the bar of la Malaje where it is part of a pretty cracking list of sherries by the glass: no longer just a haven for fans of Montilla Moriles. On the contrary this is a classic manzanilla from Delgado Zuleta in Sanlucar (they acquired B Rodriguez de la Cave in 1978 ).

The colour is slightly darker/blacker gold than most, and it has a salty/herbal/citric nose to it – brings to mind the wild plants on sand dunes by the sea. On the palate it is compact, with a sharp entry, a tasty, nutty and herby middle and a long, mouth watering finish.

A classic manzanilla with a bit of character to it (and a shocking omission from the blog up to now).

Fino Don Zoilo

A very respectable fino this from Williams & Humbert – fresh but tasty, and with a bit of savoury body to it. 

Classic rich fino colour – would say it has a bit of age – and a punchy bitter almond nose. On the palate nice fresh salinity and that savoury, almost meaty bitter almond flavour. Nice long finish.

Only one glass (and I really needed that after a long week) but struck me as an above average fino. 

Fino Una Palma 

The Palma range is a special selection of special wines by Gonzalez Byass – for background see this piece from April 2015 amongst others – and this is the first of the four, a nice fresh six year old fino (available by the glass in Territorio Era).

One of the defining characteristics of the range is the refined elegance of the wines and this is no exception. Nice punchy potency, almond flavours, just a touch of herb but all restrained and in a fatty, silky profile. 

A very easy sup.

Oloroso Mar 7

Rounding off a cracking lunch at Territorio Era with this Sanlucar oloroso from Mar 7. (In fact we had something after but this was the last sherry.) Not sure about the details of the wine but I would guess it has an average age of 15 years or so. 

It is a beautiful deep brown colour and has a saline, haybale, nutty nose. Nice and sharp on the palate but not excessively so, and attractive salty, nutty flavour to it. Not huge in profile or body either – a smooth, elegant, slightly smokey oloroso. 
Very tasty and very handy as a table wine.

Fino de añada 2009, Williams Colección Añadas 

These wines were pretty rare and I almost feel guilty for drinking so many of them. In my defense, I was given this in Territorio Era and had the chance to explain it to some friends for whom the concept of vintage finos was new. 

It is a fino from palomino grown in the Añina and Carrascal (de Jerez) pagos and harvested in 2009. Rather than being fed into a solera it has been statically aged as a vintage wine, with populations of flor living and dying in the one barrel. It was released by Williams & Humbert as part of a fantastic boxed set

As I have opined beforw, this fino seems to have retained some glycerin and, while the minerals and nuts are there, it also seems to have seen some oxidation, giving it a sweet creamy character. It has a zingy buzz up front and a fresh finish but in between it is full bodied and there is a sensation of juicy, fleshy fruit.

A really fun wine all round. 

Manzanilla en rama Callejuela – saca de 2016

Was looking forward to tasting this wine. Callejuela is one of the new forces in Sanlucar, the bodega behind the exceptional Manzanilla de Añada and a top class range of manzanilla fina, manzanilla madura, and of course manzanilla pasada (Blanquito). As luck would have it, they had some at Angelita (as you may have realized from the distinctive marble bar top.)

I only had a glass and may need to come back and study this further (apart from anything else, I took no note whatsoever of any information on the label and can’t find any now, so don’t ask me about ages, saca, classes etc). My first impressions are of a heavier, punchier, more rustic style of wine, with more farmyard and aniseed notes in aroma and palate and less sharpness and verticality of profile than the other manzanillas of the bodega. Really characteristic, in fact, of a “river influence” manzanilla.

Vive la différence.

Las Machuqueras, Matias i Torres 

A sought after wine ever since the boys at Can Roca apparently cornered the market in recent years, I have been able to try this – and the Albillo Criollo and the Diego – thanks to David at Territorio Era. Listan blanco (aka our friend the palomino) from old vines about 250-450m above sea level on the island of La Palma in the Canary Islands: one of the vineyards with the picturesque little walls to protect the vines from the wind.

So a lot of expectation and it was a very interesting wine alright. Not high acidity but just enough, and nice concentration of over-ripe apple and chemistry-set minerals. Minerals in colours – more dimensions than your standard salinity and steel. Nicely integrated too. 

A flavourful and complex wine. 

Tintilla 2013, Vara y Pulgar

Enjoyed this at lunch today in my current watering hole of choice. Black of blackcurrant in appearance with a nose of more black berries and undergrowth. Then on the palate rich, concentrated dark fruit, sweet notes and a slightly peppery, mineral and ashy/tannic finish.

Concentrated but enjoyable.

Oloroso Puerta Real 

All macharnudo and pretty old – no VORS or a VOS on the label but a reference to “many years”.  Fans of bottle ageing will note that this one had a few years in the bottle – a 2012 bottling.

As you can almost see it is a reddish, mahogany brown colour. Has a nice rich walnuty nose to, with a hint of sweet spice maybe, and then on the palate it is a big horizontal mouthfull – full flavoured but not sharp in attack or finish. In fact on the whole it comes across as so smooth as to be almost mellow.

Tasty and elegant.