I have had a moratorium due to overflowing wine storage but after some good discipline it came to an end today. One of the first wines in was this – a favourite and a great wine by any standards.

I have written about this so many times already (in March, again in June, in July, in September, and most recently in November) it feels like there should be nothing new to say but I still feel compelled.

It just seems to channel all the qualities I love about these wines: a nose full of yeasty bread, haystacks and almonds; a rich juicy texture; and a salty, intense, integrated roast almond and yeast flavour which lasts and lasts without getting bitter.

Sensational, yet again.