La Panesa

Fino does not come any more serious than La Panesa, the supreme example of what biological ageing can do. The wine has spent an average of 15 years under the flor and is just immense. (This is surely the technical limit – I am not aware if any other wine aged as long under flor.)

The nose can seem quiet – I like to decant or at least give it a good swirl – but it repays the effort with a lot of aromas. The apples are no longer the green cider jobs of the mosto but the oldest of winter fruit, packed away in wooden crates and surrounded by almonds and undergrowth, to name just three. In the mouth it is velvety, full bodied and flavourful – with layers of toasted almonds, bakery flavours and a distinctively vegetable power and zing.

Overall a remarkable wine and one, I think, that any aspiring sherry connoisseur should have on hand at all times.

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