I didn’t have the chance to study this because I was in a little bit of a daze at the time I came across it but am glad I at least tried it and it impressed me quite a bit.

This is not fortified but is 100% palomino from Pago Mahina, by all accounts a legendary corner of a legendary pago of very pure albariza in the zone to the North of Sanlucar on the heights and inland, said to be under the influence of the river as opposed to the Atlantic. (I said in the original note that I couldn’t get much information and have since been innundated.)

Whereas other wines I have had from Alba (the Sobretabla 2013 Lots I and II and the Confitero 2014) were from Miraflores, and this wine seemed to have a bit more spark. I am not sure how much of this is narrative of the day – I had been talking about this wine earlier (standing on the driving range that was Martin Miguel, la Charanga was pointed out to me) and was keen to try it, – but even accounting for my predisposition, this is an interesting wine alright.

Like the other wines I had tried it had an alcoholic nose (although to be fair it was at room temperature) but whereas the Sobre Tabla reminded me of pineapples this is more herbal or floral. Then on the palate not quite muscle in the Macharnudo sense (this was the day I discovered La Barajuela, after all), but structure and a little bit of power, those nice slightly sweet floral/herb flavours and a long finish, but not clingy – compact and elegant.

Very good. Maybe these guys are onto something!

I have really enjoyed the 2013 and 2014 and now here is the 2015 with an even more evocative label of seashore and birdlife (the finca that this comes from – Finca Matalian – is only 7km from the sea in the far South of the marco).

I only had a chance to taste this in passing (and late in the day) but no doubt that the same characteristics are there. I actually tasted this on the same night as the Las 30 de Cuadrado and the La Charanga and, although I am conscious of the risk of lazy rationalization, it seemed to have less structure than either – an almond profile compared to a spearhead/leafhead. Very pleasant though – that floral, herbal, only slightly mineral freshness. A fresh, elegant sup.

(I have a 2013 in the fridge here and am wondering whether to stick or twist. Will see if I can get all three – and maybe the version that has had some later oak – together.

I have found this wine fascinating since I came across the mosto from Finca Matalian in the Pitijopos and tasted the 2013 last year. (In fact I hunted down all the wines from Finca Matalian – a really interesting set too.)

First, props to the label – Finca Matalian is apparently albariza and only 7km from the sea and the white/green/waves motif is perfect. Having said that, the 2015 has a new label again, which is also cracking, and at least helps us identify the añada (since the label cannot, I understand, indicate the year).

As for the wine iself, it has a very refined mineral, almond, and herb (rosemary) character to it, and just a hint of chalky texture. And boy is it a pleasant thing to drink – a refreshing 11% and while it doesn’t come across as acidic it doesn’t seem to have any edges either.