After a great night in the company of Tradicion on Monday this is a glass of what they do best – a brilliantly edgy VORS palo cortado (slightly fuller note available of a much older bottle in January).

Beautiful, drink me colour to it. Nose has a touch of diesel with burnt citrus and roasted nuts, on the palate it has acidity and zingy salinity and an almost fruity but dry hazelnut, then a slightly more bitter, warm, buzzy and superlong finish.

Wow the acidity though – a wine that goes down fighting.