I wish I had a magnum all for me and all afternoon to drink it. Enjoyed by the glass in Madrid Angelita – a haven in a sea of sherryless torment.

Another from the solera of Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin (from a long line of masterpieces including the 60, 50, 40, and 20 – probably the best manzanilla pasada I have had) and this hits all my buttons. Yeasty, haystack, roasted apple nose, buttery texture, sweet/savoury roasted apple palate and bittersweet mouthwatering finish.

What a wine, ladies and gentlemen. Absolute belter.