I have been lucky enough to get a table (thanks to a tip from Reserva y Cata) at one of Madrid’s most exciting restaurant openings in a long time – Kappo, the new project of Mario Payan, at Breton de los Herreros 54. They are very much still in the rehearsal stage but early signs are it will be a new classic: small in dimensions but beautiful in appearance, and beautifully simple, high quality sushi with some unexpected twists and flavours. Mario himself presides, and although I am no expert I thought the dinner we had was superb.

When I visited for dinner just over a week ago there was an experimental feel to the winelist but nevertheless there were some very promising signs for sherry lovers.

So welcome, Kappo, and kanpai!


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