Due to a virus (microbial, not computer related) this is the first sherry I have had in a while and it is one I picked up yesterday in Chamartin market. The Fino Camborio, from Bodegas Juan Piñero (a winery where Ramiro Ibañez consults on the winemaking), a brother to the Manzanilla Maruja and Manzanilla Pasada Maruja. Like Maruja, it used to be a brand owned by Terry before being acquired and revived by the Piñero.
It has an interesting ficha (in fact, a great ficha – a lesson in transparency). The palomino is sourced from Macharnudo and Añina (I guess we are talking Pitijopos numbers 4 and 5 (wish I had another box)). The wine has been aged for 9-10 years in a solera with only three criaderas, with one saca per year. (The manzanilla Maruja, by comparison, is 8-9 years but from a solera with eight criaderas and 8-10 sacas each year.)
It has a nice light gold colour with maybe the merest touch of green but it has a really mineral nose – salty sea air and olive juice – a very spikey aroma indeed with just a little macadamia nut umami in the background. It is also piercing on the palate: really mineral, with zingy salinity and, again, green olive flavours. The salinity gives it a nice volume and there is again, just that hint of underlying umami, like very salty almonds. Long with the zingy olive flavours prevailing then fading.
Punchy stuff but I like it more and more.