I have been lucky enough to get a table (thanks to a tip from Reserva y Cata) at one of Madrid’s most exciting restaurant openings in a long time – Kappo, the new project of Mario Payan, at Breton de los Herreros 54. They are very much still in the rehearsal stage but early signs are it will be a new classic: small in dimensions but beautiful in appearance, and beautifully simple, high quality sushi with some unexpected twists and flavours. Mario himself presides, and although I am no expert I thought the dinner we had was superb.

When I visited for dinner just over a week ago there was an experimental feel to the winelist but nevertheless there were some very promising signs for sherry lovers.

• First, there were some cracking wines there: specifically, a full range of wines from Juan Piñero – Manzanilla Maruja, Fino Camborio, Manzanilla pasada Maruja and others.
• Second, to my delight I saw that the sherries were not walled off in a separate section but mixed in with the other quality wines on the list – a cracking range of bubbles and table wines of every colour.
• Third, they also have, of course, an outstanding selection of sake, allowing a side by side comparison of these two under appreciated, umami rich libations.

So welcome, Kappo, and kanpai!