La Bota de Palo Cortado 52, Sanlucar

Writing up my notes from a splendid couple of wines by Equipo Navazos at lunch in Los Asturianos yesterday and this was the star of the show without doubt. First, though, just a moment of admiration for the camerawork here: just look at the way I have framed the reflection of the chorizo and morcilla in the stem. Genius.

As to the details of the wine (since the ficha is only posted in Spanish), this one is from the cellars of Hjos de Rainera Pérez Marín, best known for La Guita. More specifically, the fruit was from selected mostos from Pago Miraflores in Sanlucar,  and it has been aged in a mix of sherry and bordelais botas almost filled (“tocadedos” – or touching the fingers) to prevent an excessive oxidation, of which the botas chosen had wood that was heavily impregnated with amontillado.

The resulting wine is fantastic. It is in fact the third time I have had this – I remember having a bottle (recommended by Santiago at Coallagourmet) when it first came out and it disappearing quickly (pre-blog chaps – no notes taken). The second time I had it was as part of an outstanding pairing, but given the occasion no opportunity to take notes there either (and, frankly, tricky to do a tasting note of anything you are eating with roast garlic). So this time, fabada notwithstanding, I was determined to take notes and they were nearly all superlatives.  

Everything about it is elegant and classy. In colour it is a rich, honeyed amber. It has a really interesting nose that is refined, with a fruity, nutty sweetness backed by saline minerals. On the palate it is super clean, fine and balanced. Honey toffee first up, then zingy minerals and acidity, beautifully integrated alcohol (in fact it is not as alcoholic as some palos at only 18%) and long with nutty and bakery type flavours, mineral smokiness and no bitterness or astringency. Really nice defined structure to it – takes you a journey.

Really lovely, elegant, classy stuff.


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