I have now tried all of these very impressive VORS bottlings by Gonzalez Byass in the last couple of weeks (after the Del Duque, the Matusalem, and the Apostoles (as part of the sherryTT) and this is probably my favourite. As its name indicates, it is a very old px – 30 years according to the label – from Jerez and it really is extraordinary.

A deep black brown colour, even in strong winter sunshine and it dirties up the glass as you swirl it around. It just has a look of black treacle about it. On the nose too it has a strong black treacle vibe – there are grapes and sugary buns but also a suggestion of burnt sugar bitterness and sweet cedar wood.

On the palate it has a big, syrupy, treacly feel and although it must have a huge amount of sugar in it but it doesn’t half carry itself lightly. There are enough bittersweet flavours (dark woody herb spices, coffee, black chocolate and black treacle) to balance the sweetness and it is just beautifully integrated.

A really sensational wine – I am going to need a much bigger bottle of this.