Photo is to scale – I have a nice set of these VORS GB wines in dinky little bottles for tasting.

Super dark in colour – real old wood polish brown, and the same kind of vibe from the nose. I was at a tasting where a colleague compared it to cathedral furniture and he wasn’t far from the money. A really reductive, astringent nose.

On the palate too you have that walnut skin astringency, a really acidic feel, albeit balanced by the sweetness which becomes a deep burnt caramel toffee – a really dark, savoury flavour. I have documented my skepticism with the sweetened wines and this is not fully convincing me either – the sweetness helps balance the bitter, astringent flavours but still seems slightly out of place.

A deep, serious wine with a touch of sweetness: a real wolf in sheep’s clothing.