Socaire 2015 revisited

Good to come back to this and more grist to the mill of my palomino theories.

This is the Socaire, a wine named for the hiding spots from the wind that sweeps over the primest of albariza real estate in Chiclana, Finca Matalian. The Finca has a very high chalk content, is 100m up and right by the sea in the Southernmost limit of the “marco de Jerez”, making it a unique bit of terroir. And sure enough it is the source of a really fantastic line up of wines, of which this is one. In fact it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that this wine is a bit of a phenomenon: there are people out there who even define the movement towards making new wines in the region as “Socairismo”.

From memory (if you want precision you are reading the wrong blog) this wine was fermented and aged in butts that had previously been used to make the marvellous Arroyuelo fino, then given 20 months or so in the butt, without flor (at least the butt was full) before being released around Easter this year.

I first tried this back in September and I found it a little quiet compared to the first vintage, from 2014, although given my experience with other palomino white wines at the time I wondered if it would find its feet with some more time in the bottle and so it seems to have proved. Maybe it is just the memory of the 2014 wearing off but this certainly isn’t timid at all. Lovely big aromas of over-ripe plums and aromatic herbs and a packet of flavour on the palate. A really tasty and enjoyable wine with just enough of a fresh finish to wash it down.

Fantastic stuff and I am beginning to convince myself of this need to keep these in the bottle. It is not an easy thing to do though.


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