The bottle of the night – probably of the year/decade – was the little bottle at the end on the right – the Valdespino Toneles moscatel.

It is an almost opaque, black brown in colour and coats the glass and the aromas are superb – Christmas pudding mix up with raisins, sweet spices, chocolate and rum, pine trees, menthol, even pipe tobacco. You can just suck in noseful after noseful.

But that is only a prelude to the main event. It is a wonderful buttery syrup in the mouth with all of the above flavours and then some. It is an amazing mouthful of intense flavour, and has immense length – minutes long – sweet raisin then on to a higher plane – with chocolate  (reminded me of the filling of those old chocolate eclair toffees from when we were kids) taking over.

Really a superb and unique wine. Probably the most amazing I have ever tasted.