I find sweet sherries a lot harder to appreciate than dry – although I can see that the sugar and high glycerol levels may make these wines a good vessel for expressive wines, for me the sugar seems to mask many of the qualities on offer, and makes supping heavy going in general. On the other hand, it is fair to say that one of the few genuinely perfect wines I have tasted was a moscatel: Toneles. (In fact maybe the real problem is that my expectations have been raised unrealistically high by that awesome little wine.)
This effort by Equipo Navazos was selected from some Fernando de Castilla wines of an average age of over 30 years. It is one I had had in Madrid for a while, but brought home to taste in England since there seem to be more takers for sweet wine over here.
It is deeply black and treacly in appearance, dirtying up the glass and leaving a brownish residue. On the nose it is all sugar and raisins.
On the palate there is more candied fruit, baked and fresh raisins, a slightly menthol edge and a nice fresh finish. However I don’t find it that expressive – not a lot of the nuts, figs and spices that I was expecting.
A juicy pedro ximenez with a fresh finish – but not the big puddingy wine I was hoping for.