Añina 2016 in Taberna Palo Cortado

In sherry terms Madrid is one of the places to be, if not the place to be, with restaurants and winebars with incredible lists of sherries seemingly in every neighbourhood. But the final destination for the discerning drinker in want of some of the really good stuff, and in particular the really hard to get stuff, is Taberna Palo Cortado.

In Taberna Palo Cortado there is a wine list of over 300 sherries (and other traditional Andalucian wines), all available by the glass. A list exceeding my over exercised imagination. But even that list is not the end of the story. If you dig a little deeper you will soon find yourself being offered wines off the menu that are even more special.

One such is this Anina 2016 by the great Willy Perez. It is of course 100% palomino fino, from old vines on a vineyard called “El Caribe” in the historic pago de Añina in Jerez. It ticks two of my boxes: terroir and (as its name suggests) vintage, putting it right up my street, and it is another example of this new style of concentrated, unfortified white wines that Willy is quickly becoming associated with.

All the hallmarks are there – it is ripe and honeylike on the nose, loads of fruit and only the faintest hint of a distant haybale, has good acidity and weight on the palate and again a lovely mouthful of fruit flavours. Maybe a hint of oxidation up front – certainly not much suggestion of anything biological – but nice mineral and herbal notes in amongst it all. Not quite as saline or savoury as its cousins from Carrascal de Jerez, but excellent, no question.

The only problems with this wine are (a) the small size of the bottle and (b) the small number of them. Not that that stops Taberna Palo Cortado!

2 thoughts on “Añina 2016 in Taberna Palo Cortado

  1. Since it had such a nice, darker colour, but you only mentioned that it is concentrated and unfortified, I looked it up on sherry notes whether it matures under flor to reach that colour or not. Ruben said that it matures oxidatively (i.e. probably without flor). Since the guys in Montilla-Moriles can make wines that mature under flor without fortification, I wondered if somebody in the DO Jerez ever managed to do that with Palomino Fino grapes (maybe it could be done with a late harvest or asoleo).

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    1. Yes it certainly has some oxidation and yes there are a few oxidated wines from around Jerez that are unfortified. They just don’t bang on about it all the time like the DO further north!

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