One of the newer labels in Jerez but an old school wine. A compact, solid fino with a lot of time in the barrel.
It comes from a compact, solid project with 16 hectares of vines on Pago de Añina in three vineyards: San Cristobal, El Aljibe and San José. Under new ownership but with old vines, a lot of varieties and clones in each vineyard but also a lot of new thinking. They have had them in ownership since 2015 and have produced wine since 2016. Those wines are used to rociar acquired soleras with a long history.
The fino is from a solera with four criaderas and the 2500 or so bottles a year have had an average of 8 years under flor. The result is that compact, solid fino I mentioned earlier. Almond, yeasty dough and haybale aromatics and then a solid palate with a nice zingy start, bitter almond and slightly undercooked bread and then a mineral finish.
And it has a solidity to it that makes you feel like it is one of those unbeatable finos. The spanish have a frankly mystifying word: impepinable. Literally it means “uncucumberable” but after eighteen years in Spain it seems to me that it means you can’t fault it.
And you really can’t fault it. Uncucumberable.
undertheflor.com 
Are you quarantined at home in Madrid? I hope you and your family are well and that you can enjoy wines from your cellar.We are finishing the last bottle of manzanilla from Barbadillo.
LikeLike
Dear Georg, yes indeed safely bunkered down here – many thanks and plenty to enjoy. Sounds like you need to get some more!
LikeLike
We still got two bottles of oloroso from Barbadillo, one bottle of amontillado from Perez Barquero (DO Montilla Moriles) and one half-bottle of pedro ximenez from Bodegas Sauci (DO Condado de Huelva) in our cellar. I have a breast of duck in my fridge that is crying out for amontillado or oloroso. I did intend to visit some bodegas in Sanlucar and in Chiclana in a few months. I don’t know whether we will be able to do so. I pity the bodegas. Some of the large sherry bodegas from the DO Jerez make a substantial amount of their annual revenues from the sales of sherries at the spring ferias and fiestas. If those ferias and fiestas are cancelled they will suffer and the population will suffer from not having a significant social event for their local communities.
LikeLike