Undertheflor on tour this summer took me down to Zahara de los Atunes and after a thorough survey and despite some superb work with the espeto down at the beach there is no doubt that the number one spot down there is Taberna Trasteo.

Really fun, informal food with funky takes on local classics (witness the saam-style tortilla de camarones, with more camarones and more attitude than tortilla) and top class, friendly service despite being absolutely mobbed (it was busy when we arrived and absolutely heaving when we left).

More importantly given the need to rehydrate after a long day at the beach it is a cracking little spot if you want a glass or two of the good stuff. The sherry list is short and to the point, with quality all the way down from the likes of Primitivo Collantes, Callejuela, Maestro Sierra, Yuste and Las Botas, there was plenty of local talent amongst the other wines too (including my favourite Cadiz Cabernet Sauvignon: the Forlong Rosé) and it didn’t take long to find they had a few extraballs off the list like the cracking Arroyuelo en Rama Selección de Botas above.

Top quality and no wonder they get so rammed.