Not just any veggies – the superb “Verde que te quiero verde” in Taberna Verdejo: horseradish, artichokes, borage, chard, asparagus and whatsit broccoli. Pairs with this gem of an amontillado – sharp, smooth and savoury rich – like a metaphorical glove.

Appropriately enough too – although these days everywhere in Madrid seems to have a good sherry list Verdejo was one of the first and in particular one of the first to really embrace the #chiclanapower of Primitivo Collantes.