I first tried this at the home of a friend and was blown away by the nose it had – I remember he had it in a burgundy glass when he came in and from a yard away there was no doubt it was a manzanilla, and a delicious one too. Funnily enough it came up in conversation on Monday night with another friend and then hey presto, without even asking I am poured a glass here at the bar of Media Ración.

It is still beautifully fragrant – just a hint of savoury sawdust and sea-salt under floral chamomile. (I didn’t smell it from any distance this time but on the other hand I have a bit of a cold.) Nice rich colour – maybe a shade darker when first released but that was three years ago now. Still tasty and zingy on the palate too – and a lovely elegant profile.

This is maybe a bit obsessive of me but with these Equipo Navazos wines, and the certainty they give you as to the date of bottling, I am always fascinated to look at the evolution. On that score this has actually evolved a little less than the fino I tried earlier this week – despite being somewhat older. Interesting stuff.