After two quite magnificent Sanlucar wines (La Bota de Palo Cortado 41 – on the right in the picture above – and Amontillado Muy Viejo Don Paco) my week of sobriety’s horse has now bolted and rather than sit in an empty stable I am going to chase it downhill with this meaty old Jerez oloroso.

Even older than the others, with an average age north of 80 years, the contrast in styles is really fascinating. Compared to its old muckers from Sanlucar, here the nose has less salinity and ozone and far more polish and walnut. It is said to be a “fine” style of oloroso and it has tremendous elegance but it also has a much fuller palate of burnt caramel and spicey tobacco – with a dustier, tobacco finish.

Really excellent, maybe the best of the three, but time for something a little less potent or my evening will be over quickly!