If for any reason you are averse to late night liquids then look away now because this juice is fully nocturnal. It is absolutely a vampire-like, bitter brooding negative version of your day wines, with its furniture polish, sawdust and burnt caramel aroma, bitter bite and walnut wood and tobacco flavours.

I opened this and wrote about it way back in April and have been back to the well several times since. It is intense, and bitter, and there is no doubt you have to be in the right frame of mind (don’t try this lad as an aperitif), but for those moments of silence when everyone else is in bed and the only sound is the sporadic hammering of the laptop keyboard what a wine it is.