Once again at the bar of Angelita and these guys never fail with their wines by the glass. It really is fun coming here.

This is a fino by Alvear, in Montilla Moriles, that is 100% pedro ximenez and has had a long long time under flor – if the original Capataz had over 6 years this has had at least a couple more. (I was told once but I had already had a few at the time.) I am predisposed to like this wine since I learned I shared a surname with the great great grandmother of the current owners, but even without that whiff of nepotism it is a cracker.

The colour is not quite as dark as the picture suggests – it is a straw-coloured gold with a suggestion of black to it. On the nose it is punchy, nutty with hay bales and sweet and herbal tea touches – very nice nose with plenty in it. On the palate it is an intense old liquid: very saline and a real burn on the edges of the tongue, full bodied and oily, and with bitter almond intensity. Long, long salty and bitter finish to it.

Intense but balanced and with plenty in it – a really top class fino worthy of Great Great Grandma Ward.

(And followed with a 2002 late harvest Trimbach – absolutely brilliant contrast, see comment above re coming here.)