Was in Taberna Verdejo for a quick bite of lunch (some fantastic migas and an even better panna cotta) and bumped into a nice chap from the business who happened to be supping on this. I have actually had it before – the first time I had it blind in Surtopia – but I must admit that my curiosity was piqued by a recent review I had read and wanted to give it another look.
It is of course named after one of the major types of albariza and is “by” Delgado Zuleta and “for” Mario Rovira – an experimental catalan winemaker who is said to be experimenting with biological ageing of his own palomino at his bodega in el Bierzo in Northwest Spain (Akilia). This one is from Cadiz, however, and is an unfortified 100% palomino fino with seven months in manzanilla botas – of which three or four months are under flor. (As an aside, it strikes me that the label “palomino fino en rama”, containing as it does the words “fino en rama” could be considered a bit misleading.)
A shade darker than I remembered it – whereas I expected a more radiant green gold this seemed slightly darker. As with the first time I found it had plenty of fruit, calcium and herbs on the nose – if anything this time it seemed even more herbal- but on the palante the fruit and herbs took over a little. Really meaty texture to it and maybe could do with just a touch more acidity.
Overall I found it a little bit heavy and lacking in structure, but no doubt that is tasty stuff.