Required reading (in Spanish) from Ramiro Ibañez and Luis “Willy” Perez via the following link – lossobrinosdehaurie.com/
These two guys need no introduction – they are two of the most exciting wine makers working in the region (or anywhere) today – and this is the first section of a work they have been preparing for some time .
The title, literally “Vintages in the Jerez area”, is intriguing and suggestive of where I think the region needs to go (witness my cabinet reshuffle and views on vintage chic) and early on you get a flavour that the authors (both of them involved in making vintage wines as we speak) are of a mind when they remind us that “the last two centuries in which the dynamic [solera] system has predominated over the static, represent only 7% of the 3000 years of viticulture in the province of Cadiz”.
This first section certainly lays down a solid base. 52 pages of cracking documents, photos (including the above shot) and explanations setting out the early history of the area from the point of view of the winemaking and the wines:
- The first chapter describes the wines and winemaking in the area “before the generalized storing of wine” (i.e., before it became customary to age the wines in origin, at the end of the 18th Century) including the introduction of biological ageing in Sanlucar, probably during the 18th Century;
- The second chapter then covers the period 1788-1830/40, which it terms the “centralization of Jerez”, covering issues such as the increased use of palomino fino; and
- The third chapter covers the period 1840-1870 (the “refinement of Jerez before the precipice”), including the birth of the classifications and symbols and the refinement of the solera process.
It is fascinating stuff that repays study.
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