A really nice piece by Andrew Jefford on the Decanter site in relation to this subject which is so very close to my heart, and especially, the “region’s youngsters” (including you know who, but also the guys at Alba).
In fact I thought this would be a good moment to compile some of the recent writings I have seen on this topic (by no means comprehensive I am sure, but if you want comprehensive this is not the blog for you).
- The first piece I was aware of was Paz Ivison’s En busca del … ¿Jerez Perdido? in elmundovino back in 2014 (preblog – translated by Sherrynotes), and she wrote a second fantastic column El pago se demuestra vinificando in June 2015.
- In March 2015 Alvaro Giron reminded everyone of the possibilities in probably the best post I have read to date – Una historia probable de los jereces secos: del azar a la necesidad.
- In August Ruben Luyten at Sherrynotes referenced the reawakened interest in an excellent post called Pagos, or terroir in sherry
- In October there was a brilliant write up in Spanish Wine Lover of Ramiro Ibañez in particular.
- Then in January this year there was a major breakthrough thanks to an absolutely seminal, breathtakingly insightful work on the Sherry.wine site called What’s new in Jerez and Sanlucar.
- In February this year the Guia Penin joined in with la Revolucion Silenciosa de Jerez (silent in the sense that the bear was silent in the woods).
- Then the great Victor de la Serna penned a piece Asi renace Jerez y Montilla
- And now this by Mr Jefford.
In the meantime, two of the “region’s youngsters” have themselves started to write down the history of not just the terroir but also the vintages. Part I of their book (in Spanish) is required reading.
But the interest in this subject is not at all recent and within minutes of posting the above list I have been given the following reading assignments (thanks again Alvaro):
- ¿Terruño en Jerez? by Alvaro Giron Sierra in Elmundovino in February 2009 and the ensuing debate
- Terruño Jerezano, Testaruda Realidad by Jesus Barquin, again in Elmundovino (and apparently just one of many contributions through the years on said essential website), in August 2009
- Terroir in two senses and none by Jesus Barquin (although the article doesn’t seem to be available – if anyone does have a lead on it let me know)
- This piece The notion of Terroir and noble wines on the Jerez-Xeres-Sherry blog summarizes and translates the contribution of Victor de la Serna in a symposium before the AIV in June 2012
- Brooklynwineguy made a nice post about a dinner organized by the great Peter Liem back in July 2012
- And a cracking post and ensuing debate in 2013 Salinidad en las Manzanillas by Giron, Angulo and Perez – will report back next week when I have finished reading it!
Most importantly though, this message is clearly getting across – anecdotally one of the Sherry Women was telling me about a fantastic tasting of sherries lead by Juanjo Asencho focussing on terroirs late last year – and let us hope that the trend continues.