Admirable and historically interesting as they may be, I just can’t quite enjoy these wines.

This is a 100% palomino fino, from a “historic” vineyard, fermented in a sherry butt with the yeasts from the vine itself, then six months more under flor, and absolutely no fortification.  It is supposedly what all the hip sherry bloggers would have been drinking in the 18th Century. It is also made by the thoroughly admirable, expert trio of Equipo Navazos, Quim Vila and Dirk Niepoort.

It is a dark, old gold colour and has a very interesting nose: coppery tin and grapefruit. It also has grapefruit flavours on the palate, with lime cordial and maybe a hint of cream. It is all the juicy fruit flavours of a lively sherry but I must admit I don’t enjoy it much – for me these fruit flavours seem brash, and I end up hankering for the fine texture and nutty, bready flavours of a good old fino.

Having said that, I think these palominos are worth trying and give real clues to appreciating sherries when the time comes.