Just look at this remarkable fino from Equipo Navazos. The colour is a real old bronze and you just know it is going to be full of body and flavour. I sometimes think these Equipo Navazos bottlings can be a bit extreme – particularly a recent series of palo cortados – but this is right up my street.

As the colour suggests there is just a hint of oxidization in the nose – not quite caramel but a sweet edge to surprisingly muted aromas of yeast/hay-bales. It isn’t muted on the palate though – the yeasty, vegetable power of it is a joy. Integrated salinity, hints of fruit – and the merest suggestion of oxidization. It really is a great combination of dry herbs on the front end and juicy yeasty fruit on the back, with a lovely long finish too.

I quite like it!