This is an amontillado selected by Antonio Barbadillo Mateos (i.e., not the Antonio Barbadillo) from the old soleras of Bodega Francisco Yuste and was an inspired purchase from Mares Vinos one sunny afternoon.
It is crystal clear, chestnut in colour – almost a dark rosé to look at. Very sweet on the nose with lots of caramel, but then a lot of Sanlucar salinity on the palate, together with burnt caramel and spice and minerals. Maybe not much by way of yeasty, bakery flavours – you could almost think it was a palo cortado rather than an amontillado – but then it has the elegance and refinement more akin to the former.
This is an expensive wine by sherry standards – 70 euros or so for a 50cl bottle – but a highly enjoyable one.