What passes for a light lunch in the land of undertheflor. If it is any consolation, I walked all the way there and all the way back – nearly half and hour each way from undertheflor inc. And it was well worth it – top bombing.

Kulto has been around for around two years and is yet another of Madrid’s growing legion of new Andalucian restaurants. It’s Andalucian cred is impeccable since it is the sister restaurant of Taberna Trasteo in Zahara de los Atunes, and while the decor is mainly new school tavern there is the off wooden tuna and the like to give you a clue.

As is my wont I took a pew at the bar and it was pretty comfortable – nice view over the kitchen where I could watch the crew beavering away, something I always find nice and relaxing. Also quality, snappy and friendly service – seem like a nice bunch of lads – and a youngish crowd in: not just for winelovers this. The bar was spacious with a few long tables but I meant to have a gander upstairs in the dining room before forgetting.

Nice little menu: always a good sign when you can’t decide what to have. After a couple of weeks of living pretty high on the hog I was determined to get away with just a quick sandwich but I was thwarted – when I saw the vietnamese/saam style tortillita de camarones (see above) I had to have one of them, and the manitas in red curry were also calling me (half portions allowed me to convince myself it wasn’t too bad). In fact the fusion stuff – which can be as grating as it is ubiquitous – was pretty nicely done I must say: the tortillita was original and the spicey thai sauce was a nice addition, while the red curry was perfect with the manitas.

And most pertinently given the mission of this blog it is a spot where you can get your sherry and manzanilla on. Not the longest list: there were about a dozen or so wines including the likes of la Callejuela, Gabriela and Las Botas, although I gather the list was a bit outdated (I gather this because two of the three wines I had were not on it) and I was told they were in the course of giving it an overhaul. Will be a good excuse to go back and see what they pick, although while they are looking at the sherries they might want to think about some Cadiz white and red wines – there was Vara y Pulgar but nothing else on a goodish list.

Cool spot with fun food and plentiful finos and manzanillas. Get in as they say.


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