With the cold weather, your correspondent finds himself flocking to winter watering hole Asturianos and once there there was no question of trying anything other than this majestic fino from Equipo Navazos.

But has it ever evolved – on the left the glass I had here back in January, and on the right, today’s effort. Much deeper and slightly darker in colour – you wouldn’t recognize it in the glass. It had changed on the nose too – whereas back in January it was all savoury and haybale aromas, now it is still aromatic but with more sweet, dried flower or herbal tea. Finally, on the palate too it seemed a little softer and less defined – still rich in flavour and maybe even more complex, with maybe just a hint of hazelnut but also some bitter almonds.

I think I prefer these finos straight up on release but I can see the opposite also being true – this may not have the power and definition of its youth but in only 10 months it is already richer, gentler and slightly more complex.