A beautiful palo cortado this from Emilio Hidalgo – balanced and super-elegant, almost a palo cortado fino. Clear as a bell and between a very dark gold and a light amber, has a lovely clean, piercing nose with fine sawdust and hazelnut. Dry, saline and sharp on the palate, again with roasted hazelnut.
Just a delicious wine, that is easier to drink than it is to find. There are a lot of bodegas that can produce as much palo cortado as they need, but for whatever reason, Emilio Hidalgo can only make as much as there is – the word the last time I spoke to them was that there was no more for now – and for the foreseeable.
I had this in Territorio Era, but if they don’t have a sherry there, it isn’t anywhere. And I am really glad I had a chance to have a look at it again. The first time I tried this wine, the bottle I had was not right – probably because it had been in the bottle a long long time, and just could not shake off the reduction. Since then I had a glass that was right in Taberna Verdejo, that just sang with dark chocolate, and I also had a glass at the Salon de los Vinos Generosos, but I never had a chance to think about it on either occasion (yes, as incredible as it seems, some thought goes into these posts).
The other problem this wine has, of course, is the exceptional, superb quality of the amontillados from the same house. In fact the more I think about it, the more I wonder where this wine comes from. A fella has some investigating to do.