I said I would come back to it and I did. Two of Callejuela’s manzanillas: on the right, the manzanilla en rama, and on the left the manzanilla madura. These two have had a similar time under flor in the same bodega and although it is not a massive contrast it is an interesting one.
The difference in colour is a slight increase in depth rather than shade. The difference on nose and palate is a little more marked. The madura has a bit more green apple freshness, the en rama a bit more underbranches and brackish water.
On the palate: ever since I tasted palulu (liquorice root) I find it everywhere I look and here it is again in both, but much more potent in the en rama. Overall a similar story to the noses – a touch more apple freshness in the madura and a touch more heavy metal in the en rama.
Overall the comparison tends to confirm the idea that en rama wines are more complex or have more character, but both of these are cracking.