Palo Cortado Cayetano del Pino y Cia, Lustau Almacenistas 

The Almacenistas collection is excellent.  The concept is absolutely right. It pays homage to the traditions of the region while recognizing the variation and uniqueness that is possible. More importantly the wines are top drawer – some of them are amongst my very favourite sherries – and they were the stars of one of the most enjoyable tastings I can remember.

So when the guys at Vila Viniteca tipped me off to this new addition to the range I couldn’t wait to have a go at it. (In fact, I believe I may have tried this wine in different packaging for the UK market but I am not 100% sure – it was at the end of a long day and looked very different, and although it seems very familiar I have no photo or notes ).

I definitely have tried it now, anyway, and it is another cracking wine. Lovely, vivacious colour and clarity to it (photo deliberately blurs the bottle because I wanted you to see the liquid). The nose has a little bit of brandy-light volatile to it with a citric/gingery sweetness – reminiscent of a liqueur from one of these mountaintop monasteries. Maybe a bit more volatile than I thought, with varnish like aromas as it opens out. Then on the palate it is dry, zingy, a sweet to bitter sensation of nuts and then an ashy, mineral finish. Very long at the end – bitter citrus flavours and salty chimney ashes hanging around for a long time.

Another racey, enjoyable wine from this brilliant series.


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