This Amontillado Coliseo, by Valdespino, was the big beast (in a little bottle) at the end of a memorable dinner at Sacha and one that served as an intense, tasty contrast to the arguable star of the night, the Palo Cortado Reliquia. Like that other wine, this is one of the dinosaurs of the cellar, with an average age of 80 or 90 years, but while the Barbadillo seemed even a little over refined, this was a little brute, full of concentrated flavour.

Dark, mahogany furniture in colour and a punchy, but smooth polish nose. On the palate it was incredibly saline and dense with woody flavours of black treacle, burnt cake and pipe tobacco. Compared to the Reliquia it may have been a little astringent but that salinity and concentration gave it the longest of finishes and I really liked it (I took it after all).

Very very good – may have to taste it again sober!