Final wine of a fantastic lineup at Taberna Palo Cortado was this 1929 Don PX Convento Selección – an 87 year old single vintage wine no less. Unfortunately, it just didn’t quite match the spritely 85 year old that it followed, much less the youthful 61 year old before that.

In colour it was between a brownish black and a blackish brown. On the nose it was much sweeter, and while there were savoury notes they were not as spicey or as defined as on the earlier wines. On the palate it was extremely sweet – maybe the lack of spices made it seem much sweeter than the others – and although there was salinity it didn’t have the same balance.

Still a long, long, leathery, treacly monster, just not quite in the same class as its amazing brothers.