Exceptional Harvest 2014 – revisited 


Opened this and gave it to my wife – who has started to gripe about the dominance of palomino chez nous, and is known to loudly reminisce in a pointed fashion about her favourite white burgundies and riojas. She immediately smelt a rat (or, in fact, a wine from the marco) “but this is all grapey like a pedro ximenez!” (a nice Rully was opened and peace restored). 

Not the first time I have had this – first tried it in La Chula de Chamberi where it is killer with a foie they have – but after all the thinking about palomino white wine the last couple of days I was intrigued to give it another roll. 

I was in fact pretty impressed at my better half calling pedro ximenez because it is really not the standard px. However now I am tasting it post-Pandorga I think I can see a similar profile emerging: the fruit, sweet notes turning to bitter orange marmalade – here the fruit is not as sweet and the marmalade not as clear or rich but the shape is evident. It is even a similar profile to the very old pedro ximenez’s with their fantastic bittersweet finish. 

Above all this is a very pleasing wine to drink – rich, honeyed and tasty but elegant and even a little bit smokey. 

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