Don’t want to bore on this but some of these remarkable wines were saved (thanks again to Ana at La Chula – noone else was in a state to conserve anything on the night in question) and, six days later, having been kept with their own corks at a steady 12 degrees, they are, remarkably, still alive.
Still, enough is enough, so to make room for some more Christmassy sherries here go some final impressions.
- #1 – Trebujena – northwest face of the pago del Duque on Tosca Cerrada. It is remarkably intact – the nose has understandably lost some of its piercing quality but is still citric and mineral, it has maintained that slightly bitter citrus and mineral palate and the notes of reduction are even more pronounced.
- #2 – Sanlúcar – north face of the Pago de la Callejuela (pago de rio) again on Tosca Cerrada. Again it is amazingly whole – still has that (somewhat less vigorous) farmyard smell, but the palate is much gentler, softer and lots of undergrowth – noticeably coppery notes of oxidation on this but not at all unpleasant.
- #3 – Rota – south face of the pago Barragan on Albariza Parda. Was interested to see what happened here. Some of that floral, fruity nose is still there, but now the fruit is a little more jammy rather than fresh. Again, a touch of oxidation – and it in fact helps it hold its shape better. On balance this has improved.
- #4 – Jerez 1 – northeast face of the pago de Añina on Barajuela. This has improved too – there is now definite fruit coming through in the nose, although the citrus on the palate is a touch heavier, not as fresh. Again the slightest hint of oxidation and no worse for it.
- #5 – Jerez 2 – north face of the pago de Macharnudo again on Barajuela. I haven’t noted the changes of colour because they haven’t been that dramatic but this one has definitely gone a shade. The nose has quietened down and is quite low key – earthy (with “barnyard” notes) but the palate is still spicy and saline – really nice intensity to it – and it is a solid mouthful. Very good.
- #6 – Chiclana – west face of the pago de Matalian on Albariza Tajon. This still has a lively, fresh fruit nose – maybe slightly more honeyed even. I find the minerals less noticeable – more herbal now – almost menthol. On the palate it is not quite as big but it is still fruity, seems less fresh and more clingy – after taste is a little jammy.
Remarkable box of wines and a really good chance to see how these develop. If I had to rank them tonight it would probably be 5, 6, 4 closely followed by the rest.
Ok stuff it I am going to keep them another week and see how they do.