At the bar in Surtopia enjoying one of the classic manzanilla pasadas – and probably the most widely available. This is by Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana one of the biggest and most important bodegas in Sanlucar (and not to be confused, under any circumstances, with Emilio Hidalgo in Jerez).

The “Pastrana” wines are the result of a plan hatched by Javier Hidalgo and Cristiano Van Zeller from Oporto. They are made from fruit from a single vineyard and there are two wines: the Manzanilla Pasada; aged for over 12 years, and the Amontillado Viejo, aged for even longer and which has therefore become an amontillado. “Pasada” literally means “past it” – at over 12 years this one gets more time to brew and, as the flor eventually gives up the ghost, a little oxidation.

As a result you get a much more intense manzanilla experience – not so much in the nose (I often find that the longer a wine spends under flor the less expressive it is in aromas) but on the tongue it is very potent. And it is potent. Has a nice easy entry and an almost oily mouthfeel then zingy salinity, intense bitter almond nuttiness, and a long, fresh finish.

It is absolutely perfect with these olives and if you like manzanilla you will love it.