Emilio Hidalgo Gobernador

This guvnor is no mere big time charlie. It is el gobernador – the excellent dry oloroso from Emilio Hidalgo (they also make an exceptional oloroso – Villapanes – with more time in the barrel). 

A beautiful rich chestnut brown in colour, it has a nose of slightly burned/overtoasted almonds and is really quite overpowering when you take a sip. It is intense – these are wines you only need to sip – acidic, with a lot of strong nutty/caramel flavour and maybe a bit of alcoholic heat. It reminds me of the black treacle toffee my grandma used to make us when we were kids (except liquid and with alcohol). 

With its acidity and the caramel/nutty flavours it is an excellent accompaniment to anything savoury and it is also a ridiculously cheap wine – about ten euros most of the time. An absolute essential for any well stocked wine rack imho. 


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