Manzanilla Deliciosa, from Valdespino – does exactly what it says on the tin.
Valdespino are a fantastic bodega that make some classic wines – from their single vineyard “Innocente” fino to some real big beast olorosos.
This manzanilla is one of my favourites – enough fruit, enough salinity, intense but balanced and refreshing. A real treat and seems absolutely at home in the spring sunshine.
And yet again, so cheap – about 10 euros a bottle – it seems a crime.
It is ironic/inept that having decided to start writing down these thoughts I have spent a few days far from my own wines or any sources of decent sherry. After several “dry” days, this Solear was a sight for sore eyes and is going down a treat.
This is a classic manzanilla and seems to be made from sea air (not seawater, although if you are not used to manzanilla the saltiness is a bit of a shock) and unopened blossoms. It is a very pale green gold in colour, has an aroma of honeysuckle and wet grass (you can definitely smell mosto, but not the sweet notes of the apple) and in the mouth is fresh and slightly saline.
A rare opportunity to get a crack at an older manzanilla. Not sure if it was en rama or not – no marking on the bottle.
First tasting it seemed a gem – fresh despite the salinity and slightly oxidized in a harmonious way. In fact the most notable thing about it was how integrated it was – La Guita off the shelf can sometimes be just too salty and thin for my taste, whereas this was more rounded.
Coming back to it a day later it had staled a little – didn’t enjoy being open – but to be fair it was only a half bottle so there was no need to come at it in two attempts. All in all an interesting experiment in bottle ageing.
undertheflor.com 