Manzanilla

Las Medallas 

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This is a standard manzanilla by Argueso acquired yesterday in a local supermarket for the princely sum of €3.99 and enjoyed as an aperitif in the evening mediterranean sunshine.

When I tasted this in Taberna Palo Cortado a couple of weeks ago I noticed how meaty and full bodied it was for a manzanilla and it certainly is. So much so I find you have to serve this quite a bit colder than my standard 10-12 degrees to get the best out of it – this one was probably 6 degrees.

It is, in short, a bit of a brute compared to the delicate, floral manzanilla wines you may be used to. Salty and meaty, but nevertheless it has some nice bready flavours – maybe a suggestion of unsalted macadamia nut. 

La Jaca

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A nice little manzanilla, if a little lightweight. A clear, yellow gold, there are notes of apple on the nose, but it is light and floral rather than aromatic and herbal. Nice and fresh on the palate too – not too salty or dense. Very pleasant.

Blanca Reyes Manzanilla en rama

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The polar opposite of packaging trends, this enigmatic creation has no visible label at all.

It is not one of the more aromatic manzanillas, but has a sweet aroma that is a bit more fruity than haybales – sweet dried herbs or maybe even dried apple flakes. There is also definitely some of the piercing cider/”catpiss” smell of the mosto coming through (I mean that in a good way).

A rich mouthfeel like a very light oil, then after the sweetish nose it comes across as tart – like cooking apples, then salty and savoury/herby in the mouth. Nicely balanced – tasty but fine and light, and long but fresh. I really like this – very good.

Taberna Palo Cortado

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I have finally made it to Palo Cortado, Madrid’s latest sherry destination.

It is an old school tavern in one of the quiet streets a stone’s throw from the palace and opera-house. The menu is full of Andalucian classics and standards – we had an excellent salad of partridge of escabeche in particular.

But the main attraction for sherry fans is the wine list – I didn’t count them (or take a picture, I really am a shocking blogger) but I reckon there must have been 60-odd sherries available, examples of every area and style and excellent prices (even for the blockbusters). Even better is the person behind that wine list, Paqui, one of the Sherry Women and a much loved member of the Madrid wine scene. Because when you have a list as long as this one you really need some expert advice.

In my case, I opted to go a vertical of manzanillas that I don’t know well from Bodegas Argueso.

First up was this manzanilla – Las Medallas – with five years under flor. It had aromas of straw and a big, meaty body to it. Really broad and robust for a manzanilla – amazingly meaty and chewy, like a very doughy loaf of bread, with more toasted bread than almond but a lot of umami. I really liked it (15/20).

Second was this, the San Leon, a more typical manzanilla – again with five years under flor. Also hay bales and herbal tea on the nose, much finer, more elegant but not quite as meaty as the Medallas. Bit quiet on the finish. (15/20)

Last but not least, comes the San Leon, Reserva de la Famila. This has had seven and a half years under flor and is recognizeably more refined – maybe lacking a little less scent compared to the junior version but a more elegant, powerful and compact wine. (16/20)

Three excellent glasses of wine – for a combined total of €8.70. There is no doubt that Palo Cortado is an essential visit for any sherry fan (and an excellent alternative even for laymen).

Surtopia in excelsis

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An absolutely cracking lunch today in Surtopia where the food seems to be getting better and better, and the list of sherries (and even more manzanillas) has always been amazing.

My fellow trencherman and host, Chicho (a Jerezano in body, soul and inclination) started with a glass of Inocente and I an 11540 with some delicious marinated sardines and Almerian tomatoes – absolutely magnificent stuff.

We then had one of the best tuna tartare I have ever had – with a lovely combination of mustard and (sherry) brandy – with this little gem of a manzanilla: the appropriately named Alegria, by Williams & Humbert.

The pairing was good but not magic – more an excellent wine and an excellent dish than an excellent combination. The wine is excellent though – light and aromatic, integrated and balanced, a really enjoyable glass by any standards.

We then ploughed on with more tuna – a confit of tuna in “manteca colorao” (literally coloured lard with an andalucian accent – but much nicer than it sounds). Again, a fantastic dish – probably the best of its kind I have had, meaty in texture and flavours. We had it with La Maruja, again an excellent nutty, sea-air laden manzanilla, although for my money not quite as aromatic and lively as the Alegria.


All in all a magnificent lunch with a great deal of laughter, some excellent manzanillas and some quite outstanding food.

Solear en rama – Saca de Verano 2015 

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There she is – this summer’s drawing of unfiltered Solear, seen here soaking up some rays on my bookcase (purely for photographic purposes). 

The colour is gold with the merest suggestion of green. On the nose it is very aromatic – well past chamomile tea and into salty herbs. I always think these manzanillas smell like sand dunes covered in wild flowers and this is no exception. 

In the mouth it is saline and pungently herby, really a forceful mouthfull. I find this one just a little bit bitter and spicy – a green, raw olive type bitterness – and really not juicy (unlike last winter), more of an aromatic, dry herb flavour than anything. Really a racy little wine. 

A flock of Solear en rama

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As keen/bored followers of this blog will know, I am both an amateurish sherry blogger and an equally half-arsed Birdwatcher. 

As such it is no surprise that I just love these little bottles of en rama manzanilla with our feathered friends on. If, like me, your other half is not a sherry drinker, these half bottles are perfect for an aperitif or cheeky snifter and the wine inside is really enjoyable. The pretty labels also add another dimension to the debate about whether to cellar or just have at them. I must admit that I have been almost unconsciously squirreling these away (in fact I was surprised I didn’t have a couple more species in the wine cabinet). 

Sadly, no time to open one now but will report anon. 

The Goyas 

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End of week treat at Taberna Verdejo. 

This place seems to be the watering hole of choice for winemakers passing through Madrid – don’t think I have ever been here without meeting someone or other and today was no different. Jose Mas, of Mas Asturias, up in Bierzo. Fortunately I have some of his wine, but it was not sherry so we move on.

On to the “La Goya” – a special edition manzanilla which I find extremely elegant. Pale in colour and very floral in the nose – really expresses the chamomile it is named for – the salinity  is integrated and it has all the vegetable, yeasty bread flavour you would expect. Hits the spot and sets me up for lunch.

Then, with some Navajas, the Goya XL – it calls itself a manzanilla reposada and it has been brewing up for gone 10 years. As often happens, it is darker in colour but slightly quieter on the nose – same aromas, maybe a bit more salt and iodine but definitely sweet herbal tea. On the palate it is definitely more intense – plenty of yeasty power to balance the salinity. And it goes on, and on, and on, keeping its shape pretty well.

And on we go, to the mackerel escabeche, with the Monteagudo Amontillado – also from Delgado Zuleta. To be honest, I have messed up this pairing – the mackerel is delicious, the monty too,  but they are at odds. One (zee fishh) is vinegary and sweet, the other mellow and dry. My bad.

Next up is a salad of sweetbreads and carabinieros and just take a look at this.  

Again, though, the pairing is not great by me – the sweetbreads would be pigs in muck with the monty, but the salad calls out for acid and freshness. (For this dish I would probably go champagne – and it deserves it.)
And now my esteemed colleague from Bierzo has started plying me with his wares so wish me luck. 

 

Solear en rama – Saca de Invierno 2014

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I really enjoy these little bottles of juicy, zingy, herby manzanillas. At least part of the appeal is the dinky little bottle – this is a wine you can drink without spending all night over it.

It has a nice gold colour and warm hay bale aromas. Then it is oily in texture, saline and herby. Dry but fruity – or maybe toast vegetable sweet.  Really enjoyable.