You want character from a white wine? You want attitude? Get yourself some of this little cracker.

The middle child of the three UBEs – not as sharp as the Carrascal or as wide as the Maina – but maybe the most polished overall. It is sharp as a tack and fresh, but savoury, funkier than you expect from a white wine, let alone the much maligned palomino. But above all it has a compact shape and the kind of profile I really like.

These wines tend to improve in the bottle but I had a glass of this at the bar of Territorio Era this week and found it to be absolutely singing, so if you come across it don’t be afraid to give it a go.