Not sherry but one of its distant cousins and if you enjoy sherries these wines – from Jura or Arbois – are well worth seeking out. This one is wonderful – it is a 1986 Overnoy Savagnin Ouillé from Arbois and it is fantastically light despite being packed with citric and yeasty flavours.

While we are at it – here is another spectacular vin jaune – this time a “vin de paille”. It was amazingly acidic and a perfect wine with a sweet nutty dessert.