Sacristia AB – Manzanilla en rama, primera saca de 2014

  

Finishing off the month in style here with one of the manzanilla en ramas selected by Antonio Barbadillo Mateos – this one is the first edition from 2014.

It is dark in colour for a manzanilla  – a real old gold at least a shade darker than the Navazos effort. On the nose you would say refined rather than fragrant. To me it has a pronounced aroma of dried grass (especially when you come back to it) and maybe just a hint of old fruit (apples that have been stored away). Then in the mouth it is very slightly oily in feel and saline and intense in flavour. If you like your manzanillas mature this is definitely for you.

  

Xixarito Oloroso

I am all over these funky labels from Bodegas Baron – love it.

 

The wine inside is tasty too – a mellow, meaty oloroso with a lot of (dry) burnt brown sugar and not too much acidity or alcoholic heat. Maybe a little bit underpowered, if one was going to be critical, but full of black treacle flavour. Went superbly with a meaty stew. 

All in all a really enjoyable glass of wine and one of the more drinkable olorosos around. 

Micaela Manzanilla

  

A lovely light but fruity manzanilla from Bodegas Baron

It is a pale pale yellow in colour – very much the epitome of sunshine in a glass. It has a very interesting nose too – between fruit and fresh sweet herbs maybe (I had just had a more classic manzanillla and the difference was marked). It is very fine in the mouth and had just enough salinity – in fact less than I expected. The fruit, herbs were not quite as prominent on the tongue but It is excellent and was a really refreshing way to start a meal. 

Monteagudo Amontillado at Taberna Verdejo

A lovely mellow amontillado Monteagudo (Delgado Zulueta) seen here with the remnants of white asparagus and smokey mayonaise with which it matched beautifully.

In fact this was only the second of three sherries of a great lunch in one of Madrid’s top sherry venues: Taberna Verdejo.

We started with a Sanchez Romate Fino Perdido and fried piparras, then this amontillado/asparagus combo, then a Gobernador Oloroso with sweetbreads with spring onions and a stew of callos, pata y morro to finish.

Lovely wines, first class food and great pairings if I say so myself. You just can’t beat an old fino with green peppers and asparagus, the amontillado was caramel mellow and could cope with both asparagus and sweetbread and the oloroso with the callos – just a sure fire winner. Curiously, these callos are less spicy and more meaty than the average and the oloroso accompanied them all the way – such a versatile wine.

As an added bonus I bumped into Antonio Barbadillo of Sacristia AB fame.

Vin Jaune


Not sherry but one of its distant cousins and if you enjoy sherries these wines – from Jura or Arbois – are well worth seeking out. This one is wonderful – it is a 1986 Overnoy Savagnin Ouillé from Arbois and it is fantastically light despite being packed with citric and yeasty flavours.

While we are at it – here is another spectacular vin jaune – this time a “vin de paille”. It was amazingly acidic and a perfect wine with a sweet nutty dessert.  

La Bota de Manzanilla 55

  

Credit where it is due, this effort from Equipo Navazos is top drawer and a great pick me up after a tough day: manzanilla Monday indeed. 

It is a pale straw colour and very fragrant (the first time I had it in fact I sniffed it out it from my host’s glass across the room) with aromas of beach grass and the drying sand of the dunes, with a bit of fruity alcohol – a calvados or something – underneath

On the palate it is silky smooth and oily, and it is fresh but full of salty, mineral and dried herb flavours. Delicious stuff. 

Goya XL and sushi

A great pairing shout from some great friends. The briney, dry, savoury nature of the manzanilla en rama really pairs well with the soy sauce, spices, seafood and rice of the sushi. 

Here we have the Goya manzanilla en rama – a slightly older manzanilla with a bit of body to it (“reposada” rather than pasada). 

 

Three kings

  

Three superb wines – the Tresillo 1874, the Amontillado Sacristia AB, and the Cuatro Palmas. Looking at this picture I am overcome with guilt at the gluttony of it all. (You may be overcome by the table cloth). Boy was this fun.

I have written about all three wines separately but it was great to taste them – all rare aged amontillados – together. Of the three the Cuatro Palmas was the more elegant, the Sacristia maybe a little bit juicier, but the Tresillo 1874 stood out a little bit: it had just a little bit more of the structure, acidity and all around zing of a really great wine.